G Dan Mitchell Photography

(Note: Originally posted in January, 2008.)

Earlier this week I posted an older photo from Racetrack Playa at Flickr and got a lot of comments and a few questions. In response, I said that I would post something here about this location – so here goes…

The Racetrack Playa is in Death Valley National Park in south-eastern California. The Playa is the site Death Valley NP’s famous moving rocks (a.k.a. “sliding rocks”) phenomenon. Rocks, some of which are television-sized, have left tracks behind them as they have traveled across the surface of the playa. (See a post from earlier today for one photograph – there are more in the Death Valley section of my Gallery.)

No one has actually seen the rocks move, but there has been a lot of speculation about the process by which the rocks manage to travel across the playa. I’m no expert on this, but here’s some of what I’ve heard. First of all, while you are free to have a different opinion, I’m not convinced that aliens did it. (Though it would be a heck of a good joke on us.;-)

One theory involved a combination of wind and water. While you might wonder how water could play a role in a dry place like Death Valley, it most certainly can. In fact a playa is a feature formed when water washes sediment down from surrounding hills into a lower basin. The water spreads onto the playa and drops its load of sediment. When the water dries it leaves behind an extraordinarily flat surface. The thought was that rocks sitting on a very slippery surface of the playa might be moved by strong winds. Observations tended to make this scenario unlikely. For example, it was calculated that the winds necessary to move the largest rocks would have to be several hundred miles per hour. It gets windy there, but not that windy.

A refinement of the theory adds ice to the mix. Imagine a thin layer of water on the playa with the slippery surface underneath. Now freeze a thin layer of ice on the top of the underlying water in this shallow “lake.” (And, yes, it very definitely gets cold enough there to freeze water.) Now the winds would not have to work directly on the rocks themselves, but could instead act on the whole frozen surface, much as they act on the arctic ice pack. As the ice moved, the rocks embedded in the ice would be dragged along. This seems to make sense given the observation that groups of rocks often follow parallel paths across the playa surface.

The rocks seem to come from a low rocky hill at the south end of the playa. While they can be found in many other areas of the playa, the greatest concentration is near this formation.

Access to the Racetrack Playa is typically by way of a 27 mile gravel road that starts near Ubehebe Crater. (I’m no expert on desert travel or on these roads, so consult the Park Service for current and more reliable information if you go.) The road has been badly washboarded every time I’ve been on it. For most drivers this makes for very slow going and it can take up to about two hours to get out to the playa. I met one driver of a very large truck who was convinced that “once you get above 30 mph the road smooths out.” I don’t recommend that approach. Slow and careful is probably a lot safer, especially for those without extensive experience driving roads like these. I know that I sit back and take it slow.

The last time I checked the Park Service recommended a “high clearance vehicle” for this road, and I concur. I have seen some vehicles without such clearance and it seemed to be pretty rough going, not to mention that you increase the risk that the undercarriage will be damaged by rocks. Although I have four-wheel drive, I have seen people out there who did not – and while the road is rough it doesn’t seem like it requires four-wheel drive in good conditions. (If it has rained or snowed, all bets are off…)

Soon after you pass Teakettle Junction you will catch your first view of the playa ahead and/or to the left. You still have a ways to drive before you arrive at the playa and drive along the right side. You’ll want to keep going if you plan to see the best rocks, though it is worth stopping at the Grandstand, a large rock formation in the playa not far from where it starts. I’ve had good luck photographing this feature during the late afternoon.

Continue on to pull-outs near the far end of the playa for closest access to the rocky hill and the largest number of moving rocks. You’ll need to leave your car and walk a good distance out onto the playa. Before long you’ll start to see the rocks. One plan is to head for the low hill where the rocks originate and then explore outwards from there.

I feel sorry for people who drive out and back during the day. The midday light is really not so great for photographing the moving rocks or much else out there. (Though cloudy conditions can change this.) In my experience the best plan is to drive out in the afternoon, spend the night, and drive back out the next morning. The most interesting photography conditions are, not surprisingly, very late and early in the day. For a real treat, schedule your visit for a full moon.

There is a small “camping area” a short distance beyond the end of the playa. It is very primitive, consisting of little more than a couple of wide spots in the road and one dilapidated outhouse. There is no water whatsoever. I have camped there and it is very quiet and peaceful. I’ve also see people sleep in their cars back at the turnouts right at the playa.

My ideal trip works something like this: Go during the cool season. Almost no one would want to try to visit this place in the summer. Most visit in late fall, winter, or very early spring. My visits have all been during the first week of April. Drive out to the playa in the afternoon, arriving a few hours before sunset. If you have time, stop to photograph the Grandstand in the afternoon light. Then head on down to the south end of the playa and figure out where you’ll sleep that night.

By the time the light starts to become interesting you’ll want to be out on the playa, perhaps with a few shots already scoped out. Shoot like crazy for the next few hours as the sun drops and finally sets, continuing on after sunset as long as the light is interesting. Head back to your car and grab some dinner. (The last time I visited I met some fellow photographers and we had a great time sharing food and drink.) If there is a full moon (or maybe even if there isn’t) head back out to do some night photography. This is a wonderful place to photograph star trails, and there are a ton of interesting opportunities on full moon nights once the moon finally makes it over the ridge located to the east. Finally, completely exhausted, head back to your camp for the night.

Rise early the next morning – well before sunrise. You want to already be out on the playa before the interesting light starts. The morning lighting is interesting and somewhat challenging. The playa itself – at least at the south end – will not get direct sunlight right away because of a tall ridge overlooking the playa on the east. Early on you’ll see some very interesting light on distant ridges in more or less the north and in the southwest. Early light also strikes the sides and top of a closer ridge that runs along the west side of the playa.

As the sun rises beyond the easterly ridge, its light begins to hit the north end of the playa first. While you are still in shadow back at the south end the ridges and the playa surface to the north are fully illuminated. The line between the lighted portion of the playa and the shaded portion begins to move toward the south end. Try to locate some interesting foreground rocks before this light/shadow junction arrives at your location – the brief moment as the light goes from shadow to sun provides some fleeting but very interesting lighting.

Soon, most of the playa is in full sun. I generally shoot a bit more, but by this time I’m running out of gas – and getting hungry for some real food. I head back to the car, say goodbye to the playa and start the long drive back to the paved road that begins near Ubehebe Crater. (Don’t pass up on photographic opportunities as you drive this road though.)

Finally, a few random thoughts – some in response to questions I’ve received.

• Someone asked how often the rocks move? I’m not sure but not often – the interval must be measured in years.
• Someone else asked how they keep visitors from “tracking it up” when it is wet? Good question, and an important one to mention. There are footprints on the playa left by inconsiderate visitors who wandered about when the playa was muddy. Their footprints remain for years. If you visit when the surface is wet please do not leave tracks on the playa, even if that means coming back a different time. Fortunately, the road is so long and so bad and there are no services out there – all of which drastically limit the number of visitors. I’ve seen perhaps as many as 20 people out there at once, but on one other visit there were only two of us.
• Another photographer asked about the effect of the eastern ridge on sunrise photography. I touched on that above, but there is indeed a very tall ridge to the east that keeps the area with the concentration of rocks in the shadows until later in the morning. Further north on the playa you can get earlier sun.
• And what about the ridge to the west at sunset? There is also a large ridge to the west of the main part of the playa, and the road past the playa runs along its lower east edge. This feature casts a shadow on the northern portion of the playa well before actual sunset. My advice it to photograph there a bit earlier – I’ve had good luck photographing “The Grandstand” in the late afternoon. The sun hits the southern portion of the playa later in the evening since the valley opens to the west from there.

G Dan Mitchell :: Jan.17.2008
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