Netherkirkgate

Netherkirkgate
“Netherkirkgate” — Aman on a ladder in Aberdeen, Scotland.

Our recent travels to the British Isles began (aside from a very brief stopover in London) with a lengthy visit to Skye and the northwest of Scotland. After that first adventure we returned to Inverness and took a train to Aberdeen for a few days. After more than a week in the wild open spaces of northwest Scotland, returning to this urban setting was quite a contrast!

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Looking Toward Skye

Looking Toward Skye
“Looking Toward Skye” — View over a mountain loch toward the Isle of Skye, seen from the road to Applecross Pass.

While Scotland’s Isle of Skye is, for good reason, a very popular place to visit, you can also find great views of the Isle and its mountains from along Scotland’s less-populated western coast. After our visit to Skye we headed north to Ullapool, and from there drove a long loop out to the village of Applecross. Before turning south toward that spot the route hugged the coastline, offering continuous views across the water to islands including Skye.

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Precipice and Valley Below Applecross Pass

Precipice and Valley Below Applecross Pass
“Precipice and Valley Below Applecross Pass” — A stream meanders beneath a towering cliff at Applecross Pass.

This day was a bit of a venture into the unknown. Since we had two nights in Ullapool, we decided to drive a big loop out to Applecross, a place that is fairly isolated, even by Scotland standards. It is on the far west cost, looking out over the waters toward Skye and other islands. When we arrived we took a quick drive through the village and then headed up the hill toward Applecross Pass to begin our return to Ullapool.

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Highlands Loch, Mountains, and Sky

Highlands Loch, Mountains, and Sky
“Highlands Loch, Mountains, and Sky” — Dark clouds, a loch, and mountains in the Scottish highlands.

Having just returned from our second long visit to Scotland and the highlands, I’m still trying to form a clear sense of just what defines the character of this landscape. Admittedly, this is a subjective thing, affected by our unique experiences there and by the prior experiences to which we compare that. My touchstone for “mountains” is California’s Sierra Nevada, a generally congenial range with sunshine and access to very high places. By Sierra standards, Scotland’s high places are “low” — but equally spectacular. Scotland definitely does not seem like a “place of sunshine” — instead it is wet, cloudy, and when sunshine comes it is often muted.

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