Tag Archives: selection

Photographic Myths And Platitudes — Diffraction Limited Aperture

It has been a while since I posted an article in my “Photographic Myths And Platitudes” series — so here is a new one! It is a bit different than some of the previous posts in that it is based on something I wrote elsewhere in response to a lengthy (and long-winded!) discussion that suggested hyper-awareness of the so-called diffraction-limited aperture

What is the diffraction-limited aperture, you ask? It is a real thing — not a myth — though it is sometimes over-emphasized by overzealous techno-photographers.  In simple terms, as you stop down a lens its potential maximum resolution declines as a result of diffraction blur. (Keep in mind that other factors affect sharpness, too. Also, this happens to every lens, from the cheapest to the most expensive — it is a universal optical phenomenon.) At some aperture, the increase in blur becomes significant enough, in a technical sense, to be more of a “limitation” on image sharpness than the ability of the sensor to record detail — e.g. the “number of megapixels” of the sensor. A simplistic interpretation of the concept suggests that a photographer should avoid other apertures in order to “get the sharpest image.”

As with many things in photography, it isn’t that clear-cut.

Now on to my original post. It is a bit technical, though I think most photographers should be able to follow it — and I will conclude with some simple, straightforward practical advice. (And here I remind readers that sharpness is not the most important, much less the only important thing in photography. Far from it!)


Sharpness, or at least the perception of sharpness, is a more complex thing than choosing the aperture the provides (to the extent that this can be determined) the highest optical resolution at the sensor plane, measured at either a) the best performing point in the frame, or b) the average across the frame.

(Speaking of “the extent that this can be determined,” I wonder how folks would answer the following question: Which is “sharper,” the image with the best center resolution but slightly lower corner resolution or the image with slightly less center resolution but better overall resolution across the frame?)

While we might consider whether f/16 will be softer than f/8 on some lens/camera combination — it almost certainly will be softer — it isn’t irrelevant to ask: “How much softer, and will this affect my print?” In quite a few cases the difference in maximum resolution in the print will be essentially invisible. In other words, while you will get optimal resolution at some particular aperture, you will actually still get extremely good print resolution at a smaller (or larger) aperture, too.

If there is no particular photographic reason to choose a smaller (or larger!) aperture, you might as well use whatever aperture you think will produce the highest resolution. That best resolution aperture will vary based on the lens you are using, the camera format, and arguably the photo site density of the sensor. To generalize, if you are shooting full frame it will probably be somewhere in the f/5.6-f/8 range with many lenses. (Other things can affect that — for example, what the maximum aperture of the lens is.) On a cropped sensor camera you could, in many cases, use either the same aperture or guess at one stop larger or so — while realizing that there could be resolution downsides to going larger with some lenses. Trade-offs abound! (I’ll spare you the technical discussion of all of the variables. You can think me later.)

But, seriously, if you are calculating the “sharpest” aperture to the closest 1/3-stop for each lens and using that aperture in the field and avoiding others that are slightly different, you probably aren’t really gaining anything significant from your efforts, and you may be sacrificing things that could make your photographs better.

That said, if we know that some mid-range aperture can provide the highest resolution, why use other apertures? And if we do use other apertures, won’t we end up with a softer print? Continue reading Photographic Myths And Platitudes — Diffraction Limited Aperture

Reader Question: About Depth of Field

Lupine, Upper Sabrina Basin
Lupine, Upper Sabrina Basin

I recently received an email from David, who has some questions about depth of field:

As you have a lot of experience of using the Fuji X-E1, may I please ask you for some advice regarding landscape focusing.

My aim is to use the 18-55mm kit lens with the majority of shots taken at the widest end. I have in mind setting the lens at Hyperfocal distances, based on a crop factor of 1.5 and a circle of confusion of 0.02. I think the first figure is reliable, but I’m not sure about the second in relation to the X-E1 – perhaps you could confirm.

I have already done some testing at home using the attached table (which come from the well respected DOFmaster site).

In my experiment I carefully measured distances at apertures of f8 and f11 using a tripod and a printed card as the subject. I set the lens manually at the hyperfocal distance, using the EVF distance scale. I was disappointed to find that the closest point of focus was not as sharp as I had hoped. Have you any idea why this may be?

I did a further test on aperture f11 and this time set the distance scale at 4 feet (2/3 of the way between 3 and 5 feet). This resulted in a sharp image from 3.5 feet. This would suggest that the distance scale is not accurate.

Any suggestions you have to overcome the problem would be much appreciated.

Let me preface my response on the depth of field (DOF) issue by congratulating you for taking the time to conduct your own experiments. One of the great things about digital cameras is that we don’t have to trust what we read — we can easily and quickly conduct the experiments ourselves. In addition to getting the answer to the question at hand, we end up knowing our gear at a much deeper and even intuitive level, which is extremely important when we are in the field and we don’t have time to ponder and calculate, but must instead make a photograph in the moment.

The rest of this post is going to be somewhat involved, so let me share a quick thought right at the beginning:

The usefulness of DOF calculators is very limited, as they are based on subjective assumptions that may not match what you are doing with your photographs. The best way to align your expectations with exposure choices is to test them yourself and evaluate images in the form that you most often produce — and not just at 100% magnification on a computer screen.

What is DOF? Essentially the depth of field is the distance range in front of and behind (unless you focus at infinity) the focus point within which subjects are likely to sharp enough to seem in focus when the photograph is viewed at some arbitrary magnification. This size of this range increases as we stop down (for example, going from f/2.8 to f/8 expands the DOF) and decreases as we open the aperture (going from f/8 to f/2.8 contracts DOF). This is a source of creative control for the photographer. A smaller aperture can allow subjects across a greater distance range to appear relatively sharp, while a larger aperture can keep the primary subject in focus while pleasingly “un-focusing” elements in front of and behind the primary focus point. Continue reading Reader Question: About Depth of Field

Making Aperture Selection Easy (Morning Musing for 8/22/14)

From time to time I see questions from photographers trying to figure out exactly which aperture is the “right” one for a particular photograph. Some will go so far as to consult depth of field calculators (or “DOF calculators”) to help them decide whether the should open up a third of a stop from f/11.

There may be times where that sort of precision aperture selection is useful, but in many cases you can make things a lot simpler*, basically selecting from one of three general options:

  1. If depth of field isn’t a big issue — let’s say you are shooting a relatively flat subject — simply use a “middle of the road” aperture that will be sharp on your lens/camera combination. The old rule of thumb about using f/8 is a decent one to follow here, although cropped sensor shooters might go for something more like f/5.6.
  2. If you need very deep depth of field, go straight to the smallest aperture you feel comfortable using. On a full frame camera this is likely to be about f/16, while on a cropped sensor camera it might be a bit larger, perhaps in the f/11 or so range. If your need for extra deep depth of field is strong enough that you are willing to give up a small degree of overall image sharpness — which will be invisible in small images anyway —  you might even go one stop smaller on some occasions to f/22 on full frame and f/16 on crop.
  3. If you need to limit depth of field to throw background elements out of focus, simply try the largest aperture that your lens has — but consider stopping down just a bit if you need just a bit more depth of field.

Basically, for most photographs, especially if you have good light and/or are using a tripod, you could probably get away with considering only three apertures in most cases — the “normal” one, the really small one, and the really big one.

  • Yes, this is a bit of a simplification, though it really does work in the vast majority of the photographs that most people are making. Clearly things can get a bit more complicated if you are, for example, shooting in very low light or need to deal with moving subjects. In the interest of keeping this “Easy” description easy, I’ll simply acknowledge those possibilities here without elaborating.

G Dan Mitchell is a California photographer and visual opportunist whose subjects include the Pacific coast, redwood forests, central California oak/grasslands, the Sierra Nevada, California deserts, urban landscapes, night photography, and more.
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Text, photographs, and other media are © Copyright G Dan Mitchell (or others when indicated) and are not in the public domain and may not be used on websites, blogs, or in other media without advance permission from G Dan Mitchell.

New Canon ‘Instant Rebate’ – Lenses and Speedlites

11/28/11 – New Canon ‘Instant Rebate’ Prices at B&H

(Note: Check the “Deals” page on this blog for more on this promotion, news about deals from ThinkTank Photo, and other periodic updates.)

UPDATE: Canon extended the ‘instant rebate’ promotion into early February. If you are going to purchase from B&H, the last full day to do so is FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 4, 2012!

The Canon ‘Instant Rebate’ promotion at site sponsor B&H features a lot of interesting gear at even lower prices than were available during a late 2011 promotion. In fact, the selection of lenses and electronic flashes and the size of the discounts seem unusually large.

Click the link to You may purchase directly through the following links to B&H (and help support this blog in the process) or click this link to see the full list of eligible equipment and/or purchase from B&H.  It runs from November 27 through FEBRUARY 4. (Note that B&H has very limited ordering hours on the final day of the promotion.)

Lenses (Note: This is an exceptional list of lenses and the discounts are larger than usual)

Canon EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 USM Autofocus Lens (save $90)
Canon EF 16-35mm f/2.8L II USM Autofocus Lens (save $170)
Canon EF 17-40mm f/4L USM Lens (save $60)

Canon Super Wide Angle EF 14mm f/2.8L II USM Autofocus Lens (save $240)
Canon Super Wide Angle EF 20mm f/2.8 USM Autofocus Lens (save $60)
Canon EF 24mm f/1.4L II USM Autofocus Lens (save $180)
Canon EF 35mm f/1.4L USM Wide-Angle Autofocus Lens (save $150)

Canon EF-S 15-85mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM Lens (save $100)
Canon EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM Zoom Lens (save $120)
Canon Zoom Wide Angle-Telephoto EF 24-70mm f/2.8L USM Autofocus Lens (save $120)

Canon Normal EF 50mm f/1.2L USM Autofocus Lens USM (save $180)
Canon 50mm f/1.4 USM Autofocus Lens (save $40)
Canon Normal EF 50mm f/1.8 II Autofocus Lens (save $15)
Canon EF 85mm f/1.2L II USM Autofocus Lens (save $230)
Canon 85mm f/1.8 EF USM Autofocus Lens (save $40)
Canon Telephoto EF 100mm f/2.0 USM Autofocus Lens (save $50)

Canon 50mm f/2.5 Compact Macro Autofocus Lens (save $30)
Canon EF-S 60mm f/2.8 Macro USM Lens (save $60)
Canon Macro Photo MP-E 65mm f/2.8 1-5x Manual Focus Lens (save $110)
Canon EF 100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM Lens (save $110)
Canon 100mm f/2.8 USM Macro Autofocus Lens (save $60)
Canon Telephoto EF 180mm f/3.5L Macro USM Autofocus Lens (save $170)

Canon 28-300mm f/3.5-5.6L IS USM Autofocus Lens (save $270)
Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II USM Telephoto Zoom Lens (save $300)
Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L USM Telephoto Zoom Lens (save $150)
Canon EF 70-200mm f/4L IS USM Lens (save $150)
Canon EF 70-200mm f/4L USM Lens (save $75)
Canon EF 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 DO IS USM Lens (save $140)
Canon EF 70-300mm f/4-5.6L IS USM Telephoto Lens (save $150)
Canon 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS USM Autofocus Lens (save $170)

Canon Telephoto EF 135mm f/2.0L USM Autofocus Lens (save $110)
Canon Telephoto EF 300mm f/4.0L IS Image Stabilizer USM Autofocus Lens (save $140)

Canon 400mm f/5.6L USM Autofocus Lens (save $130)

Canon Wide Tilt/Shift TS-E 17mm f/4L Manual Focus Lens (save $260)
Canon TS-E 24mm f/3.5L II Tilt-Shift Manual Focus Lens (save $230)
Canon TS-E 45mm f/2.8 Normal Tilt Shift Manual Focus Lens (save $150)
Canon Telephoto Tilt Shift TS-E 90mm f/2.8 Manual Focus Lens (save $150)

Speedlites

Canon Speedlite 580EX II (save $50)
Canon 430EX II Speedlite (save $30)
Canon Speedlite 320EX (save $25)
Canon Speedlite 270EX II (save $15)
Canon MT-24EX Macro Twin Lite Ringlite Flash (save $60)
Canon MR-14EX TTL Macro Ring Lite Flash (save $45)